These days the only things that land on Hashima Island are the shits of passing seagulls. An hour or so’s sail from the port of Nagasaki, the abandoned island silently crumbles. A former coal mining facility owned by Mitsubishi Motors, it was once the most densely populated place on earth, packing over 13,000 people into each square kilometre of its residential high-risers. It operated from 1887 until 1974, after which the coal industry fell into decline and the mines were shut for good. With their jobs gone and no other reason to stay in this mini urban nightmare, almost overnight the entire population fled back to the mainland, leaving most of their stuff behind to rot.
Today it is illegal to go anywhere near the place as it's beyond restoration and totally unsafe. The Japanese Government aren’t keen to draw unwanted attention to this testament to the hardship of the country’s post-war industrial revolution either.
The punishment for being caught visiting Hashima Island is 30 days in
prison followed by immediate deportation. But the other week, after
getting up before sunrise and cutting a secret deal with a local
fisherman, some friends and I landed on Hashima Island.
The port of Nagasaki is an international fare where you’re more likely
to find granny-laden cruise ships and large oil tankers filling the
docks than buck-toothed fisherman willing to break the law for a few
extra bob, so we took the early morning ferry to the still-inhabited
Takashima, the closest island to Hashima. After asking around – and
being politely turned away by every Japanese we mentioned it to –
finally we found our man. The rules of Japanese politeness dictate you
never say what you want directly, so even once we were aboard the boat
we weren’t sure we were actually going to set foot on Hashima – we’d
only agreed for our fisherman to take us close enough to see it.
Bobbing into view, the grey seawall’s artificial angling of the island
gives it the shape of a battleship – hence its Japanese name in popular
mythology, "Gunkanjima" - Battleship Island.
